During acne, the production of sebum increases, but its composition also changes, leading to follicular hyperkeratosis, which further increases sebum production.
Let's go step by step:
Yes, the amount of sebum secreted increases, which leads to the "dilution" of sebum. And then the composition starts to change:
- Squalene (which protects the skin from external factors and is an antioxidant) oxidizes and turns into squalene peroxide, which is highly comedogenic and irritates the skin.
- The concentration of vitamin E (an antioxidant) decreases, making it difficult to protect the lipids in the stratum corneum from oxidation.
- Monounsaturated fatty acids (fatty acids that have oxidized) cause pathological follicular keratinization.
Against the backdrop of such a disorder, the pH of the skin increases, the processes of keratinization in the follicular openings are disrupted, leading to clogging of the duct and the formation of microcomedones, and creating favorable conditions for colonization by microorganisms.
But what else happens?
Fatty acids are not distributed as they should, gaps appear, which leads to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Yes, acids are a good helper in the fight against acne due to their exfoliating effect. But excessive and active use of acids, especially at high concentrations, can worsen the situation. Everything should be in moderation!
It is important to understand that the level of dehydration of the skin increases with the severity of acne. The protective barrier is broken, the composition of sebum is changed, and TEWL increases. The skin needs hydration!
Stay tuned and you know which type of acids are the best in different cases.